What fillers do:
Protein fillers help equalize the porosity of the hair and get into the gaps of the cuticle so that the hair color penetrates evenly.
Conditioning Protein Filler
Conditioning protein fillers do not have any color in them and it's mainly used to help even porosity. These type of fillers can be used before and/or after a color application. You can put it in a spray bottle and spray it all through your hair. You can also add a capful of the protein filler and put it directly in with your dye. Just get the color and peroxide and then add it in with them. Sometimes you don't need to apply this to the entire head and just focus on the problem areas. This is very helpful when clients have split ends but they will not allow you to cut them. Conditioning fillers will really help with the color application.
Color Protein Filler
These type of fillers also serve the same purpose as the conditioning filler. However, they also add color back into the hair. Usually they will add one of the primary colors, red, blue, and yellow, back into the hair. Color protein fillers are crucial when you've had your hair bleached blonde and you want to go back to brown or black. If you don't utilize the color filler when dyeing your hair something darker from bleach blonde, you will not be happy with your results. However, they can easily be fixed. Let's look at some examples.
Bleached blonde to warm brown
This applies to dark, medium, and light brown. Any type of brown. Let's say you bleached your hair blonde and you really want to go back to a type of warm brown shade. We need all 3 of the primary colors in order for a color application to be successful. Missing one of these can results in a really bad mess. So, let's analyze the situation: We have the yellow, from the blonde, and so we need the blue and the red. These are the steps you need to take:
- Add the red protein filler. This will bring the red back into the hair, but it will also turn your hair orange. Yellow + Red = Orange. However, don't be scared! This is normal!
- Once you have the red in, you need to apply an ash toned brown. Why? Because ash toned colors have the blue undertone that you're looking for. Remember, we need yellow, blue, and red. We have the yellow and red, so adding the ash toned dye will give us the blue.
Bleached blonde to cool brown
Contrary to the first situation, we are now dealing with an ash-toned brown. Like before, we need all of the 3 primary colors in order for this to be a success. Say if you applied the ash-toned brown directly to the hair without a filler. What's the result? Green hair! It's fine. All you need to do is add a warm toned brown (demi-permanent) or a red protein filler. However, make sure you constantly watch the hair. Remember we're also dealing with porous bleached hair so the color will take much faster. Also, if you do not have a demi-permanent color, just add 10 Vol peroxide with the permanent color and it becomes a demi.
Conditioning fillers help even hair porosity while color fillers help add the missing primary colors back into the hair. Color fillers are extremely important for people who have bleached their hair and wish to go back to a brown or black.
Remember that in order for us to make this brown, we used all 3 of the primary colors. We used 2 yellow, 1 blue from the ash brown and 1 red from the color filler. You can also do the same procedure and replace the brown with black.